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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.